Training on Overhangs

The closer I get towards leading at F7a, the more I notice certain physiological elements that need attention. It started with a feeling that I was lacking in finger strength – regular finger pull-ups and hangs from door frames have helped a lot with this. I then noticed I was struggling to hang small pockets, so focused on working routes that contained a number of them. All of this quite directed finger training has meant that I’ve been finishing training sessions with fingers that feel they’ve had a workout, but not much else. The area I feel I’m now lacking in is power-endurance – my forearms are pumping out far too quickly on sustained routes. To this end, we went to the Leeds Wall and jumped on the big overhanging routes there. It’s interesting to notice how the grades suddenly feel much harder when climbing a different style of route. The aim of cranking out some big overhanging routes is to improve both overall power, and stamina. We’ll see how the next few weeks pan out..

Mat’s Goal #1 – F7a lead by Christmas 2011

I’m a believer in personal goals when it comes to climbing, and leading an F7a cleanly by Christmas 2011 is my current obsession motivation. I’m aiming to be climbing at least 3 times a week at present, mixing endurance circuits on easier ground with redpointing 6c – 7a climbs. I’ve been having a go at the occasional 7a for a while now – more outdoors than indoors, dogging my way up Resistance is Futile, F7a+ at Godnor Cliff, Portland, after much encouragement from Becky!

Becky toproping Resistance is Futile, F7a+, Portland, UK

New shoes have also helped, more of those in a future post!